Karangasem - Tenganan- Tirta Gangga Palace Tour

Amlapura is east Bali's major transport terminal and so, well connected to all parts of Bali. It was known as Karangasem until 1963, when the mighty Agung volcano unfortunately, erupted with spectacular force and even more spectacular damage. So, Karangasem underwent a name change and was "reborn" as Amlapura to rid itself of any "unlucky" association, which might provoke a much-feared recurrence. The old Puri Agung Karangasem Palace was once the seat of the past King of Karangasem. The visitors can walk around the old palace. The ruins of the Taman Ujung water Palace are conveniently located 3km south of Amlapura. When visiting Amlapura, it is best to stay at Tirta Gangga, not because of any spectacular eruptions, but for the sake of comfort and luxury.

The main attraction of Amlapura is its traditional palaces or puri. There is a western, a northern, a southern and an eastern puri as well as several others, all still occupied by members of the royal family. Of these, only the Puri Kangin (the eastern palace) on the main road to the market is easily visited. This is worth a look, as it gives a vivid impression of how local royals used to live. The palace buildings themselves are in fact an eccentric blend of Chinese and European details set in what is essentially a traditional Balinese compound with several pavilions and room surrounded by pools and connected by walk ways. The main hall is called the "Bale London" and the furniture curiously bears the crest of the British royal family. One can even rent rooms here the perfect accommodation for the aspiring aristocrat.

Tenganan, northwest of Candidasa, is situated about 5km from the main road. Tenganan is a symmetrically laid out Bali Aga village with a walled homes and unique crafts. Bali Aga was the original inhabitant of Bali, before the arrival of Hindu Javanese. Tenganan retains its ancient pre-Hindu customs through a strong code of non-fraternization with outsiders, further enforced by the protection of its surrounding walls.

Tenganan is charming and has some very fascinating authentic traditional festival (ritual dances and gladiator) like Bali Aga of Tenganan often holds the battle between local youths. The people of Tenganan are skilled in the unique technique of weaving, called the 'double ikat', where the belief in the magical power of the fabric is essential in bringing out the beauty of the ikat cloth.

There are some versions of story telling us the history of Tenganan village. Some say that the word Tenganan was derived from the word "tengah" or "ngatengahang" which means, "move to the inner area". This derivation of word was having a relation with the movement of the villagers from the seaside to a rural area, in which the position of this village is in the middle of hills, which are western hill (Kauh Hill) and eastern hill (Kangin Hill).
Another version reveals that the people of Tenganan came from Peneges village, located in Gianyar, precisely near Bedahulu. Based on the folklore, once upon a time Bedahulu King lost one of his horses. The people looked for it to the east and the horse was finally found dead by Ki Patih Tunjung Biru, the King's right hand. For his loyalty, the King finally gave Ki Patih Tunjung Biru an authority to govern the land as far as the aroma of the carrion of the horse can be smelled. Ki Patih was an intelligent person, so he cut the carrion into pieces and spread it as far as he could. Thus he received a quite large area.

Visitors will feel comfortable when visiting this area, for some facilities are available here, like food stalls, good toilets, arts shops and a quite large parking area. If we wish to have meal in restaurants or to spend the night near this area, we can go to Candidasa, which is only 3 km from this village. To get to Tenganan, get a lift up from the main road by ojek; and have a pleasant walk back down to the main road contemplating the intricacies of the Bali Aga culture. There is no entrance fee to Tenganan but a small donation is requested as we enter the village.